White water rafting on the South fork of American river was so much fun, I decided to do it again. This Labor Day weekend, I venture out to Coloma once more. This trip was to run the Middle fork of the American river.
(BTW, I have gotten some question on this: yes, there is a North fork of the American river, which I plan to run next Spring. That river is not dam controlled and typically do not have enough flow to raft after Spring time.)
I had enjoyed my rafting trip with Mother Lode: the company I went with during Memorial day, but they did not have enough clients to fill 2 boats on this Labor Day weekend! I was therefore transferred to join Mariah Wilderness Adventure on this trip instead.
I arrived at 4:30pm the day before to set up camp and spent the night. Mariah's camp ground was all dirt:( I had preferred the lawn camp ground at Mother Lode. This camp ground was also located by the South Fork of American river, less than a mile from Mother Lode's camp ground. The nicest feature of the camp ground had to be the swimming hole, basically a bend in the river with shallow bottom. I had brought my swim gear, but decided not to swim because the water and the weather was too cold.
After an early dinner at Sierra Nevada House, I read a little and went to sleep. I wanted to be ready for the 7am trip.
I got up at 6am, and considering I was camping, had a fairly decent night. Mariah did not offer breakfast, so I brought along some banana and bagel. The middle Fork rafters met at 7am and were driven to Raley's at Auburn, where we picked up 2 more guest. I made a mental note to check hotel prices at Auburn. It would make a more comfortable sleep compare to camping.
From Auburn, it was a 45min drive to the put in point, located at the foot of Oxbow reservoir.
As usual, we were given a briefing on the van ride to the put in point. The Middle fork is classified as a class IV-V river, so besides a repeat of the usual paddle commands/safety instructions (which I had heard on South Fork), we were taught a few more tricks. One command was "get down", where all rafters would abandon their usual position sitting on the side of the raft and get into the middle of the raft, holding on to straps attached to the raft.
The other was "high side". This command would be used when a raft is about to flip, one side of the raft would be higher than the other. Rafters sitting on the lower side of the raft should shift to the higher side of the raft to re-balance the raft.
Our lead guide for the trip is Morgan. Our guide is Matt. In our boat were 4 guys from India (sorry, I don't remember their names) and Vince. Vince was a former river guide, so we had extra help on this trip.
I sat in the front right hand side spot. Vince was on my left. There was a diver (aka non-swimmer) on the trip, so he sat in the back, right next to Matt.
We were given the usual PFD, paddles, spray jackets and helmets for this trip. After a quick gear check, we pulled the raft to a small ramp for put in. Of the dozen or so companies that were rafting that day, we were the first to launch!
Immediately after put in, we practiced turns and other paddling commands. We did not have much time because there is a Class III rapid near the put in point. It is appropriately named "Good Morning!" Learning from my South Fork experience, I wore a spray jacket on this trip. Still, I got a good splash and woke up even more!
The first couple of miles down the Middle fork were filled with class III and class IV rapids. Between these rapids, Matt had us working on paddling and turning again. Also, in preparation for tunnel chute, we also worked on "get down" and "high side", so it was a really active start to the day.
Matt guided us expertly through the next few rapids before we reach "Tunnel Chute". Tunnel Chute had to be the most famous rapid on American River. It is basically a hole in granite blasted out by gold miner with a turn and a big drop before going into a tunnel. Some even considered it class V rapid. All the pictures one sees with rafters holding their paddle up in the air and seated inside the raft were from this rapid.
We had to positioned the raft when we entered the bend and into the drop. Just before the drop, Matt called "Get down!" Everyone reacted immediately. Then for a second or two, there was nothing except white water all around us. At the bottom of the chute, we had to get out of our position and immediately start paddling again, as the river took another turn. It was hardcore white water fun!
After Tunnel Chute, everyone relaxed a little. After all, the most difficult rapid was behind us. Vince and I switched position with guys in the second row so they could experience the full force of the river for themselves.
We got through the rest of the class II and class III rapid without much difficulty. Then we approached Kanaka falls. Matt had the habit of briefing us on the rock formation of the major rapids ahead of us and the paddling he expected of us. On Kanaka, we were to make a bend in the river and there was several bumps along the way. As we paddled the rapid, on one bump, both person on the front row fell. I was able to grab the person in front of me and pulled him in, but Vince was unable to pull the guy on the left back into the raft. He fell into the white water. It was the lower portion of the rapid and water was starting to slow, so Matt called "All forward". We raft towards him and pulled him back into the raft.
Morgan had mentioned on a rafting trip, an average of 1 client would go swimming. Since she and Matt did not have client fall out on the previous day's trip, I guessed they were due.
After Kanaka, the water flattens out. There was about 2-3 miles of flat water paddling. I had a chance to really admire the beauty of the river and its canyon. According to Matt, the canyon walls are 2000 ft high. Being near the river, the area is lusciously green. The view was just amazing!
There were also lots of guide stories swapping between Vince and Matt.
Matt recalled this past summer, he had given a briefing to a group of rafters and noticed one lady looking very puzzled. When the lady first saw the river raft, she exclaimed, "Oh...these type of rafts!" The raft she had in mind were formed by tying several wooden log together....like those described in the adventures of Tom Sawyer.
Vince countered with another story. When he was guiding, at a bridge running across the river, he would tell clients that this was Native American territory and the Native Americans did not like people looking at them. In fact, they would shoot people looking at their faces. Just as all the clients were looking away from the bridge, he would slap the water with a flat paddle, simulating a gun shot sound and gave everyone a good shock!
I asked Vince a little more about himself. Turned out, he was a techie just like me! He used to work in a technology company and was married. After his divorce, he and his ex-wife sold their house. Each of them had about $300K from the sale. He became a river guide and worked the river for 5 years. His ex-wife, meanwhile, bought a new house in Half Moon Bay. Given the current real estate market, it was likely his ex-wife was underwater in that mortgage. He had his fun being a river guide and now worked in Philippines, managing a call center for My Linux Support.
Vince told me he was tempted to tell his ex: "After the divorce, I rafted a 100,000 river, scuba dived a 100,000 dive sites and f**ked a 100,000 women. So, what did you do with your money?" Then he contemplated for a second and said: "I better not. She would shoot me!"
It was about 12:30pm when we reach a small beach and break for lunch. Given the bumpy ride, any bread the guides brought along would be squashed! Instead, we were given pre-squashed bread: tortilla! It was served with ham, cheese, fresh cut vegetables, potato chips and condiments.
After lunch there was another 2 -3 miles of flat water paddling. On this stretch, Matt showed us his favorite rock formation on the river.
My waterproof disposable camera picture did not turn out well, but the rock was basically one rock shaped like 2 boobs with cleavage in between. Naturally, someone had placed 2 pebbles on top of the rock. Matt deadpanned, "And the rocks on top only shows up on a cold day!"
About half an hour of flat water paddling, we got busy again. The interesting rapids were now ahead of us. Our first major rapid after lunch was Chunder. Chunder was a finesse rapid. We had to position our raft in a particular direction on the right side of the rapid to go through it.
After Chunder, was the other infamous rapid of Middle fork. Ruck-A-Chucky was thought to be un-runnable until some river guide did it in the 80's. However, no river company would take client down this rapid. We left the raft and walked around the rapid on a small unmarked trail. Even Matt did not raft through this rapid. He had Morgan pushed our raft down the rapid, while he waited at the bottom of the rapid to pull the raft in. Despite claims that we were suppose to portage, we did not lift the raft on this rapid.
After Ruck-A-Chucky was Cleavage. This rapid had a opening between two rocks (hence the name). After a drop, there was a rock right in between the open which Matt referred to as Dick rock. We were to help turn the raft to avoid it.
Parallel park was the final major rapid. Here we were required to turn left, then backed the raft up and then pulled all forward. The motion of the raft resembled parallel parking, hence the name. We had no problem with this rapid too.
Coming out of parallel park, we hit Texas Chainsaw. There was a rock formation on the right where the bottom of the rock, near the river, had been eroded away. Since we had a fair amount of speed coming off the previous turn, we were not able to paddle away from the rock. I was on the front row left and had to bend down to avoid the rock from taking my head off.
Off the next class III rapid, Matt suggested we go surfing. We park our raft in the eddy where water was calm, then paddle upstream towards a the rapid. I realized for the first time how much power rafters could generate when we paddled together. At the base of the rapid was a with lots of white water. As the front off the raft moved into the white water, it tipped down, and the front of the raft was filled with water. White water has no bouancy.
The surfing was pretty much the last thing we did on the river. We pulled out at a small ramp near a park and took a 45min drive back to camp.
I had planned to camp another night, but I was no tired after all the rafting. After breaking camp, I drove home.
Before leaving, I asked Vince about Cherry Creek. This was a class V river, which called itself the standard which all class V are measured against. I wanted to raft that river someday.
Vince suggested running North fork and Cal Salmon before doing Cherry Creek. Also, on a high flow (3000-4000 cfs) day, South Fork could be a good training ground. The idea, according to Vince was to experience falling out of the raft. That way, one would not panic as much if it happened on Cherry Creek.
A map of Middle Fork of American river can be found here. Description of the rapids can be found
here
Finally, photos of me going down Tunnel Chute can be found here
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